By late October the Riviera has changed character. The beach clubs are closing, the yachts have sailed for the winter, and the towns belong to the people who live there again. Days can still be warm in the sun, but evenings by the water are cool, and the dress code shifts from swimwear to something closer to city clothes.

Think in Two Temperatures

Pack for a mild afternoon and a cool evening. Light knits, cotton or silk shirts and wide-leg trousers cover the day. For night, add a light wool coat, a suede or leather jacket, or a generous wrap. One warm layer that works over everything is better than several half-measures.

The Palette

Navy, white, cream and sand belong here in every season. In autumn, add tobacco, olive and a deeper blue. Striped knits and crisp white shirts are a cliché because they work.

Shoes for Hills and Harbours

Riviera towns are built on slopes, with stone steps and cobbled lanes. Loafers, leather sandals with a back strap while the weather allows, and a low ankle boot will carry you everywhere. Leave stilettos at home.

What to Leave Behind

• Beach cover-ups and most swimwear. Pack one swimsuit in case a hotel pool is still open.
• Heavy winter coats. A mid-weight layer is enough.
• Anything too formal. Even the best restaurants on the coast lean relaxed and elegant rather than black tie.

The One Piece to Bring

A large lightweight scarf in cashmere or a wool-silk blend is the most useful thing in the case. It covers shoulders in churches, warms you on the terrace after dinner and dresses up a simple knit.