Stack of folded knit sweaters

Cashmere, Properly: Buying, Washing and Storing

Cashmere season starts now, and a good sweater can last a decade or more with the right care. The difference between cashmere that pills and stretches after one winter and cashmere that softens with age comes down to how it is made and how it is looked after.

What to Look For When Buying

  • Feel the density. Hold the knit up to the light. A tighter, denser knit generally wears better than a loose, airy one.
  • Check the label. 100 percent cashmere is not a guarantee of quality, but blends with a high proportion of synthetic fibers will not behave the same way.
  • Do a gentle rub test. If the surface pills in the shop when you rub it lightly, it will pill much more at home.
  • Look at the seams. Well-made sweaters are linked at the shoulders and cuffs rather than simply sewn.

Washing at Home

Most cashmere is better hand-washed than dry-cleaned, but always follow the care label. Use cool water and a wool or cashmere detergent, or a gentle baby shampoo. Soak for a few minutes, press the water through without wringing, rinse in cool water, then roll the sweater in a towel to remove moisture. Dry it flat, reshaped, away from direct heat.

About Pilling

Some pilling is normal, especially under the arms and where a bag rubs. It is shorter fibers working their way out. Remove pills with a cashmere comb or a fabric shaver once they appear. The pilling usually lessens over time.

Storage

Never hang cashmere; it stretches at the shoulders. Fold it and store it in a breathable cotton bag or a drawer. Moths are the real enemy: clean everything before storing it for the summer, because moths are drawn to body oils and food traces, and use cedar or lavender in the drawer.

Rest Between Wears

Give a sweater a day off between wears so the fibers recover their shape. Cashmere rewarded with patience is one of the few luxuries that gets better the longer you own it.

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