Everyone knows St. Moritz in winter: snow polo on the frozen lake, horse racing on the ice, fur coats on every terrace. Come in July and the same town turns turquoise. The lake thaws, the meadows fill with wildflowers, and you can walk the whole shoreline in a sweater and sneakers.
This summer we drove up from Lake Como to see it for ourselves, and I came home convinced that the quiet season may be the better one. Here is the summer side of St. Moritz: the hotel, the lake, the long light at 1,800 meters, and how to dress for all of it.
Driving Up from Lake Como
We put the top down at the southern end of Lake Como and headed north, out of Italy, into Switzerland and up over the Maloja Pass. On the other side the road drops into the Engadin Valley, the air turns cool and everything smells like pine. It is one of the great arrivals in the Alps, and a good argument for driving at least once. If you would rather sit back and watch the scenery, my guide to taking the Glacier Express covers the rail route.
Our Base: Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski
We stayed at the Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski in St. Moritz Bad, the quieter, lower half of town. The hotel’s story goes back to 1864, and it was built around the Mauritius Spring, mineral water that has drawn people to this valley for thousands of years. Blue shutters, neo-baroque towers and a façade that would not look out of place in a Wes Anderson film.
We had a corner room with a balcony over the park, a marble bathroom stocked with Diptyque, and a welcome of flowers and little sweets. We started the trip properly, with a bottle of champagne on ice and the windows wide open.
- Dinner: if you have an evening at the hotel, book a table at Neora, its modern Greek restaurant built around an open-fire kitchen.
- The spa: the Alpine spa has both indoor and outdoor pools.
- Booking: you will find this hotel and my other St. Moritz stays in my Expedia Travel Shop.
Mornings on the Balcony
Mornings were room service on the balcony: eggs, pastries, fresh berries and a view straight across the park to the mountains. At 1,800 meters the morning sun hits differently. After breakfast we would put the top down one more time and drive up to the lake.
The Lake, Without the Polo
Lake St. Moritz is where the snow polo is played every January. I have written about a weekend at Snow Polo St. Moritz, and in winter the lake is the center of the social calendar. In summer it is simply a beautiful lake.
All along the shore are little red viewers. Look through one and you see the lake in January, with the horses, the snow and a grandstand on the ice. Look up, and there are sailboats.
Walking the Shoreline
A path runs all the way around the lake. It is a lovely place to walk or run, and in some sections you can ride a bike. The loop is about four kilometers and takes a little over an hour if you don’t stop. You will stop: pink thistles, glacier-blue water and the whole town stacked up on the hillside across the way.
From the far end of the lake, trails lead into the forest. Every signpost tells you exactly how long the walk will take, which is very Swiss.
Lunch on the Water
For lunch we stopped at Segelhaus, the café right on the water. We had a chicken Caesar with avocado and a burger, with front-row seats for the wing foilers skimming across the lake. There was, of course, a Bernese mountain dog.
The Summer Uniform
Because this is St. Moritz, the uniform matters. Summer here is pure old money: tennis whites, a sweater over the shoulders and nothing too loud. My fit check by the lake was a sporty tennis dress, a Vineyard Vines sweater, a Chanel bag, Chanel sunglasses and Reebok sneakers.
The old-money way to tie a sweater: drape it over your shoulders, take one sleeve, twist it over the other, tuck it through and pull. It sits neatly and stays put when the wind comes off the lake.
To build the look, start with a white tennis dress, a fine cashmere crewneck to knot over your shoulders and a clean pair of white leather sneakers. Evenings at altitude are cool even in July, so pack a cashmere cardigan for dinner.
Is St. Moritz Worth It in Summer?
Absolutely. You get the same glamour, the same grand hotels and the same scenery at a slower pace, with long days, cool air and a lake you can actually walk around.
- For winter regulars who want to see the town without the season’s crowds.
- For anyone pairing the Italian lakes with the Alps: the drive from Como over the Maloja Pass is the way to arrive.
- For walkers and runners who like a grand hotel and a spa at the end of the day.
If you have only ever seen St. Moritz in winter, come back in July. And for a winter stay with a different character, read about my old-money ski trip at Suvretta House.
Shop the Edit
Pieces for a summer week in the Engadin, when the days are warm and the evenings call for a layer.
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