I filmed this one from the balcony at Belmond Splendido, on my fifth stay in Portofino in a year and a half. Splendido is one of my top five hotels anywhere in the world, and I still don’t understand why Portofino gets either a bad rap or no attention at all next to the Amalfi Coast. So here is the short answer to the question I get most: is it worth it?

Why Portofino Beats Amalfi

I have been to all of Italy’s big luxury destinations, and Portofino is still the one I would go back to tomorrow. It is smaller, calmer and more beautiful at night than anywhere on the Amalfi Coast, and it has kept its character in a way the more crowded places have not. I would happily stay two weeks. (If you are weighing the two, my Amalfi Coast guide and Portofino guide will help.)

What a Stay at Splendido Really Costs

Let’s be realistic about pricing. On this trip, a four- or five-night stay at Splendido came to around $20,000. Is it pricey? Yes. Is it worth every penny? For me, absolutely. The setting above the harbor, the service and the feeling of the place are the reason you come.

The Room to Book

Book a superior room with a balcony and sea view. That view is the whole experience, and you will want the balcony morning and evening. I booked through Amex Fine Hotels + Resorts, which adds a few useful perks to the stay.

My One Rule for Popular Hotels

Book the room you actually want. Don’t count on an upgrade. In a destination this popular, in high season, all the good rooms are going to be full, and the upgrade isn’t coming. I go into more detail on this in how I choose a luxury hotel.

What to Pack for Splendido

Dinner on the terrace calls for something a little dressed up: a silk dress and elegant heeled sandals you can still manage on stone steps. Add sunglasses for long lunches by the pool, a cashmere wrap for the evening breeze and a carry-on that can handle the trip in.

Shop the Edit

• Reformation Manhattan Silk Dress, Reformation
• Gianvito Rossi Ribbon 85 Sandals, Nordstrom
• CELINE Triomphe Rectangular Sunglasses, NET-A-PORTER
• Pura Cashmere Travel Wrap, Pura Cashmere
• Rimowa Essential Cabin Suitcase, 24S