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Every autumn, the hills of the Langhe in Piedmont turn to gold and the town of Alba becomes the center of the culinary world. The International Alba White Truffle Fair runs from October into December, and the dish that carries the precious Tuber magnatum to the table is almost always tajarin.

Tajarin are Piedmont’s version of tagliolini: fine, hand-cut ribbons made with an extravagant number of egg yolks, which give them their deep golden color and rich, silky bite. In the region’s trattorias they are tossed with nothing but butter, so the shaved truffle can speak for itself.

Truffle season in the Langhe

Visit Alba on a weekend during the fair, when the market fills with truffle hunters and the scent carries down the street. Combine it with Barolo and Barbaresco country nearby, and with northern Italy’s grand hotels; our stay at Passalacqua on Lake Como and the Four Seasons Milano are both within reach.

If there is no truffle

White truffles are a luxury. Fresh porcini, or a mix of wild and cremini mushrooms sautéed in butter, make a beautiful autumn alternative. Either way, keep the sauce minimal.

Ingredients

Serves 4.

For the pasta

• 2 1/3 cups (300 g) “00” flour
• 12 large egg yolks
• 1 tbsp water, if needed

To finish

• 6 tbsp (85 g) unsalted butter
• 6 sage leaves
• 8 oz (225 g) fresh porcini or mixed mushrooms, sliced (if not using truffle)
• 1/2 cup (50 g) finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano
• A white truffle, to shave (optional)
• Salt

Method

1. Make the dough. Work the flour and yolks into a firm, smooth dough, adding a spoonful of water only if it will not come together. Knead for 10 minutes, wrap and rest for 30 minutes.
2. Roll and cut. Roll the dough very thin. Dust with flour, let the sheets dry for 10 minutes, then roll them up loosely and cut into ribbons about 1/16 inch wide. Toss to separate.
3. Prepare the sauce. If using mushrooms, sauté them in 2 tablespoons of the butter until golden. Melt the remaining butter with the sage.
4. Cook. Boil the tajarin in well-salted water for 1 to 2 minutes; they cook almost instantly.
5. Toss. Lift the pasta into the butter with a splash of cooking water and the Parmigiano, and toss until glossy. Add the mushrooms, or shave the truffle generously over each plate at the table.

How to serve it

Immediately, on warm plates. With truffle, nothing else is needed; with mushrooms, a little more Parmigiano and black pepper.

What to pour

Nebbiolo is the natural partner: a Langhe Nebbiolo for value, or an older Barolo or Barbaresco for a celebration.

Make a menu of it

Begin with our ribollita in a smaller portion or follow with our red wine braised short ribs. More Italian recipes, including our tortelli di zucca, are At the Table.

Photo: Nicholas Gemini, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0