Long before trick-or-treating, there was souling. In medieval England, around All Saints’ Day and All Souls’ Day at the start of November, the poor and the children of a parish went from door to door offering prayers for the dead. In return they were given soul cakes, small round biscuits spiced and studded with currants, often marked with a cross.

The custom is often cited as one of the ancestors of trick-or-treating, and Shakespeare alludes to begging at Hallowmas. Souling faded in most places, but in Cheshire it survives: in villages such as Antrobus, troupes of “soul cakers” still perform a traditional folk play in the pubs each autumn.

The old tradition today

Combine a trip to Cheshire’s villages with Chester and the countryside of the northwest, or with our guide to London for a longer stay. For a very American Halloween, read our guide to Halloween in Salem.

More biscuit than cake

Soul cakes are closer to a soft shortbread or scone than a modern cake. Saffron was used in richer households; a pinch in warm milk gives them a beautiful color, but it is optional.

Ingredients

Makes about 16 cakes.

• A pinch of saffron (optional), steeped in 2 tbsp warm milk
• 3/4 cup (170 g) unsalted butter, softened
• 3/4 cup (150 g) superfine or granulated sugar
• 2 large egg yolks
• 2 1/2 cups (315 g) all-purpose flour
• 1 tsp ground cinnamon
• 1/2 tsp ground nutmeg
• 1/2 tsp ground allspice
• 1/2 tsp ground ginger
• A pinch of salt
• 1/2 cup (75 g) currants
• 2 to 3 tbsp milk, as needed

Method

1. Cream. Heat the oven to 350°F and line two baking sheets. Beat the butter and sugar until pale, then beat in the yolks and the saffron milk.
2. Make the dough. Sift in the flour, spices and salt, add the currants and mix to a soft dough, adding milk a spoonful at a time if it is dry.
3. Cut. Roll out to 1/2 inch thick and cut into 2 1/2-inch rounds. Place on the sheets and mark a cross on each with the back of a knife.
4. Bake. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes, until pale golden at the edges. Cool on a rack.

How to serve it

With tea, or as a gentle alternative to candy on Halloween. They keep for several days in a tin.

What to pour

A cup of tea, or warm spiced cider for the evening.

Make a menu of it

Bake them with the barmbrack for a Hallowtide tea, and serve colcannon for supper. More Halloween recipes are At the Table.

Photo: SiGarb, Wikimedia Commons, public domain