Some dishes are made for the first cold weekend of the season. Short ribs braised in red wine top the list: deeply savory, glossy with sauce and tender enough to cut with a spoon. They are also the most practical dinner party dish there is. The braise improves overnight, reheats beautifully and asks nothing of the cook once guests arrive.

Buying the right cut

Ask for bone-in, English-cut short ribs, cut into single-bone pieces about 3 inches long. The bone adds body to the sauce and keeps the meat in one piece. Allow one large or two small ribs per person. Flanken-cut ribs, sliced thin across the bone, are for grilling, not braising.

Ingredients

Serves 4 to 6.

• 5 lb bone-in English-cut beef short ribs
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tbsp neutral oil
• 1 large onion, 2 carrots and 2 celery stalks, diced
• 6 garlic cloves, smashed
• 2 tbsp tomato paste
• 2 tbsp all-purpose flour
• 1 bottle (750 ml) dry red wine
• 2 cups beef or chicken stock
• 4 sprigs thyme, 1 sprig rosemary and 2 bay leaves

Method

1. Season early. Salt the ribs generously, ideally the day before, and refrigerate uncovered. Bring them to room temperature for an hour before cooking.
2. Brown properly. Heat the oven to 325°F. In a large Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium-high heat and brown the ribs in batches, 3 to 4 minutes per side, until deeply colored. Don’t crowd the pot. Set the ribs aside and pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat.
3. Build the base. Lower the heat to medium and cook the onion, carrots and celery until soft and lightly golden, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic and tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes, then stir in the flour.
4. Add the wine. Pour in the whole bottle, scraping up the browned bits, and simmer until reduced by about half, around 10 minutes.
5. Braise. Add the stock and herbs and return the ribs, bone side up, with any juices. The liquid should come nearly to the top of the meat. Bring to a simmer, cover and transfer to the oven for 3 to 3½ hours, until the meat is completely tender.
6. Rest overnight. Let the pot cool, then refrigerate. The next day, lift off the solid fat, remove the ribs and herbs, and simmer the sauce until it coats a spoon. Season, return the ribs and reheat gently.

What to serve alongside

Something soft to catch the sauce: creamy polenta, buttery mashed potatoes or a celery root purée. Finish the plate with gremolata (chopped parsley, lemon zest and a little garlic) to cut through the richness, and serve a bitter green salad after.

The wine

Cook with a wine you would happily drink, but don’t spend serious money on the braise. A Côtes du Rhône, a Chianti or a juicy Cabernet Sauvignon is ideal. Save the better bottle for the table, where short ribs welcome structure:

• Northern Rhône Syrah, from Crozes-Hermitage or Saint-Joseph, for pepper and dark fruit.
• Nebbiolo, from Langhe or Barolo, whose tannin and acidity cut through the fat.
• Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, for a richer, more generous match.

Plan the whole menu

Open with a Calvados Cider Sour and end with a warm tarte tatin. For a weekend away built around the season, see the best fall foliage escapes from Boston, and find more recipes in At the Table.