In Ireland, colcannon was once as much a part of Halloween as the barmbrack. Mashed potatoes were folded with kale or cabbage and scallions, piled high and served with a well of melting butter in the center, and small charms, a ring or a coin, were hidden inside for the children to find, just as in the brack.

The dish is so beloved that there is a traditional Irish song about it, sung around the country. Colcannon is simple farmhouse food, but made with good potatoes and plenty of Irish butter, it is one of the most comforting things on any table.

The taste of the west

For an autumn trip to the west of Ireland, start with our piece on Dromoland Castle, then follow the coast. In Boston, the Irish pubs that we covered in our St. Patrick’s Day in Boston guide often serve colcannon alongside bacon and cabbage.

Use floury potatoes and real butter

Floury potatoes such as Russets mash to a light, fluffy texture. Warm the milk with the scallions first to infuse it, and do not hold back on the butter.

Ingredients

Serves 6 as a side.

• 3 lb (1.4 kg) floury potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks
• 1 cup (240 ml) whole milk
• 6 scallions, thinly sliced
• 8 tbsp (115 g) salted Irish butter, divided
• 1 small bunch curly kale, stems removed, leaves finely shredded (about 4 cups)
• Salt and white pepper

Method

1. Boil the potatoes. Cook the potatoes in salted water until very tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and let them steam dry for a few minutes.
2. Infuse the milk. Meanwhile, warm the milk with the scallions until it just simmers. Set aside.
3. Cook the kale. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a pan and cook the kale until wilted and tender, about 5 minutes.
4. Mash. Mash the potatoes with 4 tablespoons of butter, then beat in the hot milk and scallions until smooth. Fold in the kale and season well.
5. Serve. Pile into a warm dish, make a well in the center and add the remaining butter to melt.

How to serve it

Hot, with the butter pooling in the middle. It is perfect alongside sausages, ham or roast lamb.

What to pour

A pint of stout, or a glass of Irish whiskey after dinner.

Make a menu of it

Serve colcannon with the barmbrack for dessert, or alongside our shepherd’s pie. Find every Halloween recipe At the Table.

Photo: TheCulinaryGeek, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0