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The story Americans tell about Thanksgiving begins in 1621, when the Pilgrims of Plymouth Colony and the Wampanoag shared a harvest celebration that lasted three days. The few written accounts mention wildfowl, which may have included turkey, and five deer brought by the Wampanoag. Much of what we now eat, including the pie, came later.

Thanksgiving became a national holiday in 1863, when Abraham Lincoln proclaimed it after years of campaigning by the writer and editor Sarah Josepha Hale. By then, the roast turkey was firmly at the center of the table, and so it remains.

Visit Plymouth

Plymouth is less than an hour south of Boston. Plimoth Patuxet Museums tell the story from both English and Wampanoag perspectives. Add a night on the coast with our fall weekend escapes from Boston, or explore the city’s colonial past with our historic Boston walking tour.

Why dry brine

Salting the turkey two or three days ahead seasons it deeply and dries the skin for a crisp, golden finish, with none of the mess of a wet brine. Leave it uncovered in the refrigerator for the last night.

Ingredients

Serves 10 to 12, with leftovers.

For the turkey

• 1 turkey, 12 to 14 lb (5.5 to 6.5 kg), thawed if frozen
• 3 tbsp kosher salt (or 1 tbsp per 5 lb)
• 1 tbsp light brown sugar
• 2 tsp black pepper
• 1/2 cup (115 g) unsalted butter, softened
• 2 tbsp chopped sage, thyme and rosemary
• Zest of 1 lemon
• 1 onion, 1 lemon and 1 head garlic, halved, for the cavity

For the gravy

• 3 tbsp all-purpose flour
• 3 cups (720 ml) turkey or chicken stock
• 1/4 cup (60 ml) dry white wine or sherry

Method

1. Dry brine. Two or three days ahead, mix the salt, sugar and pepper and rub it all over the turkey and inside the cavity. Refrigerate on a rack, loosely covered, then uncovered the final night.
2. Prepare. Take the turkey out an hour before roasting. Heat the oven to 425°F. Mix the butter with the herbs and lemon zest and push it under the skin of the breast and legs. Fill the cavity with the onion, lemon and garlic.
3. Roast. Roast for 30 minutes, then reduce the oven to 325°F and roast until a thermometer in the thickest part of the thigh reads 165°F, about 2 1/2 to 3 hours in total. Cover the breast loosely with foil if it browns too quickly.
4. Rest. Rest the turkey for at least 30 minutes, loosely covered, before carving.
5. Make the gravy. Spoon off all but 3 tablespoons of fat from the roasting pan. Stir in the flour over medium heat for 2 minutes, then whisk in the wine and stock, scraping up the browned bits. Simmer until thickened and season.

How to serve it

Carved on a warm platter, with the gravy, cranberry sauce and all the sides.

What to pour

Pinot Noir is the classic Thanksgiving red, light enough for turkey and every side dish. For white, a dry Riesling or a white Burgundy.

Make a menu of it

Serve with our cranberry sauce and Parker House rolls, with cornbread dressing coming tomorrow. Every Thanksgiving recipe is At the Table.

Photo: Mark Miller, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0